Modern Plushness

Some wine regions were pre-ordained to be magnificent, and indeed the wines reflect that majesty.  The Ribera del Duero is one such region, northern Spain in location, and to the uninitiated, not to dissimilar to Rioja to the east.  Of course the soils and geology differ and the elevation of the Ribera del Duero gives other characteristics.  Tempranillo is now seen as the major variety in both regions, so the comparisons are interesting.  It wasn’t always that way, with the Bordeaux varieties playing a significant part earlier.  Rioja Tempranillo seems lighter, more red-fruited and fragrant, whereas Ribera del Duero Tempranillo is more black-fruited, and with greater intensity if not structure.  These are generalisations of course.

The senior Ribera del Duero is Vega Sicilia, one of the world’s greatest wines in fact.  It has the track record, breeding, quality and longevity to prove its place.  At its best, it is incredibly concentrated and complex, quite classical in construction, maybe even claret-like in the very finest sense.   After all, great Bordeaux was its model.  Then coming onto the scene, Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera fame made Ribera del Duero accessible to the world, and then followed all manner of producers, some small with tight visions and others, larger, such as the Torres giant, determined to make this wine one for all to enjoy.

The 2014 Torres ‘Celeste’ Ribera del Duero Crianza is a great wine in that it has made Ribera del Duero very approachable in price, availability and style.  The style is the key.  Black coloured, quite dense, it is plush with ripeness of black fruits.  Sweet with a touch of savoury and complex earthiness.  Beautifully structured with extract, but balanced by the fruit sweetness.  This does have a sense of gravitas, but it is a pleasure to drink, especially when young.  Its price means you can afford to buy a case of it, where you’d think about taking out another mortgage for the likes of Vega Sicilia!  It is a true Ribera del Duero, but with concessions to the international market.  There’s nothing wrong with that if people love the wine, and make them think about increasing their mortgage….